Two Sides of Ireland: Ashford Castle & the Burren Farm Experience

There are some travel experiences that impress you. There are others that stay with you.

On our recent trip to Ireland, two experiences in particular captured what I love most about travel: the opportunity to step into a place's history and grandeur, and the chance to be welcomed into someone's everyday life. One was our wedding anniversary stay at the legendary Ashford Castle. The other was a farm lunch and tour in the Burren with Cathal and Bronagh of the Burren Farm Experience.

On paper, they couldn't be more different. One is an 800-year-old castle turned world-renowned luxury hotel, set on the shores of Lough Corrib. The other is a fifth-generation working farm tucked into the rocky landscape of the Burren in County Clare. But both left me with the same feeling: this is Ireland.

A Fairytale Anniversary at Ashford Castle

Arriving at Ashford Castle is one of those moments when you understand why certain hotels become destinations in their own right.

You pass through the grand stone gates, round the drive, and suddenly there it is: an actual castle, sitting on the shores of Lough Corrib, surrounded by 350 acres of woodland, gardens and estate grounds. Ashford has stood here for more than 800 years and was once home to the Guinness family. Today, it is part of the Red Carnation Hotel Collection and is a Forbes Five-Star property — as well as one of Ireland's MICHELIN Two-Key hotels.

And yes, it feels like staying in a castle.

The halls are layered with history and rich, royal textures. Deep colors, fireplaces, antique furnishings and portraits seem to appear around every corner. There is something wonderfully theatrical about walking through the property — but it never feels like a museum. Fires are crackling, the staff are warm and genuinely attentive, welcome cordials are being poured, and guests are coming and going from walks, afternoon tea, falconry, spa treatments and dinner.

On a sunny day, it is almost too beautiful to believe. The light dances across Lough Corrib, the grass is the particular shade of green that makes you understand every cliché you've ever heard about Ireland, and the estate comes alive with guests and locals enjoying the grounds. You might see someone heading off for a hawk walk, a family returning from an canoeing adventure, or someone simply sitting outside with a mystery thriller.

And then there is the castle itself.

Our Stateroom

For our anniversary, we stayed in one of Ashford's Signature Staterooms overlooking the grounds and the lake — and I was completely blown away the second I turned the key.

Velvet in royal blue and deep red, a roaring fireplace, a clawfoot tub and heated bathroom floors made the room feel appropriately regal without feeling stuffy. The complimentary minibar was stocked with Irish gin and whiskey, along with local treats to enjoy during the stay. Each evening, turndown included a little gift — sometimes something to commemorate the day, sometimes something to help you settle in for the night.

Those little details are what elevated the stay for me.

Ashford doesn't just give you a beautiful room; it creates a sense of occasion around being there.

And if you're looking for something even more private, I learned about another extraordinary accommodation option while we were there: The Boathouse, a one-bedroom residence perched right on the Lough. You still have access to everything at the castle, but with the feeling of having your own private retreat on Lough Corrib.

More Than a Beautiful Castle

What makes Ashford special is that you could easily spend several days there without ever feeling the need to leave.

There is world-class dining, from the elegant George V Dining Room to the more relaxed Stanley's, the atmospheric Dungeon and the historic Connaught Room for afternoon tea. The Drawing Room and bar became one of my favorite places to settle in for a nightcap and live Irish music.

And so much of what you eat can be connected back to the estate. We had the opportunity to tour the Kitchen Garden, where the property grows produce used throughout its culinary program.

Then there are the cornucopia of experiences.

We did the private Hawk Walk, spending an hour with a falconry trainer and one of Ashford's Harris Hawks, and tried our hand at clay shooting — a surprisingly fun experience even for someone who has never held a firearm before. We also enjoyed an Irish whiskey tasting, and I loved how easy it was to fill a day with experiences without ever feeling like you were following a packed itinerary.

You can fish on Lough Corrib and have your catch prepared by the chef for dinner. You can play golf or tennis, go horseback riding, take a history walk around the estate, or explore the grounds with one of Ashford's Irish Wolfhounds. And, of course, there is the spa.

I treated myself to a spa treatment shortly after arriving, which was exactly the reset I needed after traveling. The spa has been named Ireland's Best Hotel Spa at the World Spa Awards for ten consecutive years and is Ireland's first Forbes Five-Star Spa.

My biggest piece of advice? Two nights is not enough.

It was all the time we had for our anniversary, and we made the most of it — but if you are going to make the journey to Ashford, I would recommend at least four nights. Give yourself enough time to actually experience the estate and have a day where you do absolutely nothing. Sit by the fire. Read a book. Order a dram. Take a walk. Let the castle do the work.

Living History

One of my favorite parts of our stay was a heritage walk with Vincent, our guide, who grew up in nearby Cong.

The history of Ashford is fascinating. The earliest castle on the property dates to 1228, while the structure we recognize today grew significantly under the Browne family beginning in the 1700s. Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness purchased the estate in 1852 and dramatically expanded both the property and its gardens. The Guinness family planted thousands of trees, and their influence is still visible throughout the estate today.

The Guinness connection is particularly fascinating right now, having recently received renewed attention through Netflix's House of Guinness. Ashford itself has leaned into that history, highlighting the relationship between the castle and Ireland's most famous family.

But the stories extend well beyond the Guinness family.

There are underground tunnels still in use, ancient fishing traditions along the Cong River, enormous sequoia trees that remain from the Guinness era, and even a rather wonderful example of how Ashford continues to blend history with modern conservation: after a large tree fell on the estate during a Storm Éowyn in January 2025, the castle commissioned 83 birdhouses from the wood. Today, there is a birdhouse for every room in the castle.

And then there is The Quiet Man. Filmed in and around Cong and Ashford in 1951, John Ford's classic starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara is still woven into the identity of the area.

The result is a place where history doesn't sit behind velvet ropes. It is part of the experience.

From Castle Walls to a Working Farm

A few days later, we experienced an entirely different side of Ireland — and, unexpectedly, it became my favorite experience of the entire trip.

When I was collaborating with my Irish partner team, I told the team that I really wanted to experience a farm. Not a quick stop where you watch the “farmer” feed the animals, explain how to sheer a sheep, and then rush off to the next group. I wanted something authentic. They delivered!

We drove through the Burren, into a landscape that looks almost otherworldly — all limestone, stone walls, wildflowers and rugged countryside — before pulling up to what appeared to be a modest country home.

This was the Burren Farm Experience, the home and working farm of Cathal and Bronagh, whose family has farmed this land for five generations. Their farm sits in the Burren landscape and offers private farm experiences, a farmhouse stay, and their own organic beef.

And the moment we arrived, we knew this wasn't going to feel like a traditional "tour."

Come In, We're Having Lunch

Bronagh welcomed us into their farmhouse and into a warm kitchen with a wood-burning stove.

And then came lunch… Not a picnic assembled for tourists. Not a tasting menu. A proper Irish lunch that Bronagh had prepared herself.

There was charcuterie made from their organic beef, local cheeses, fresh salads, homemade breads, pickled vegetables, jams and marmalades — and an absolutely incredible filet of beef.

It was one of those meals where the food keeps coming and everyone eventually stops asking, "Should we try that?" and just says, "Sure, why not?"

Then came homemade scones and jam and, finally, Bronagh's take on an Eton Mess, which she calls a Burren Mess: berries, cream, meringue and crumbled scone.

I was stuffed…And very happy.

But what made the meal memorable wasn't just the food. It was the story behind it.

Fifth-Generation Farming in the Burren

Cathal is a fifth-generation farmer, and Bronagh is the creative force behind the experience — from the tours and incredible lunch spreads to marketing their beef and getting involved with local festivals and shops.

Their approach to farming is deeply rooted in the landscape. They transitioned to organic farming in 2020, and today their herd numbers around 120 cattle. Their farm is a place to experience the family's "rock steady way of organic farming" within the Burren's remarkable limestone landscape.

Cathal talked to us about what it means to be a farmer in Ireland today — and how much technology, monitoring and change has made its way into what can sometimes seem like a very traditional, idealistic way of life.

He also talked about the realities of farming in rural Ireland. He is now the youngest farmer in the area, as much of the surrounding land has changed hands or been sold off. Growing crops isn't particularly economical when so much can simply be imported. And while the farm may look idyllic, there is a very real business behind maintaining it.

They are even experimenting with the future: hazelnut trees that they hope to eventually pair with Bordeaux-variety truffles.

It's a reminder that tradition doesn't mean standing still.

Then We Met the Cows

After lunch, we headed out onto the farm.

Because we happened to have an absolutely gorgeous day — sunny and in the 70s in Ireland in September, which felt like a small miracle — we opted to walk rather than take the farm's Land Cruiser. I was slightly disappointed not to experience the tricked-out jeep, but the walk turned out to be perfect.

Cathal introduced us to the cattle and explained the history of the farm, the land and what it takes to care for the herd. We weren't being moved along because the next group was waiting. We weren't watching a rehearsed demonstration.

We were simply spending time with a family on their farm.

That distinction matters.

The Burren Farm Experience deliberately keeps its tours small, and that was immediately apparent. The experience is a private farm tour designed to connect visitors with the land and the family who farms it.

They can tailor the experience to the interests and abilities of their guests, too. And that makes it incredibly approachable — even for someone who has never stepped foot on a farm before.

Cough, cough... my father-in-law.

At one point, Bronagh told us about accommodating an elderly guest who used a wheelchair. He was determined to experience the farm with his family, so they found a way to get him into the Land Cruiser and make it happen.

That story says a lot about the kind of hospitality they offer.

The Ireland I Wanted to Find

Ireland is full of beautiful hotels, dramatic landscapes and historic sights. And we experienced plenty of them.

But the experiences that stayed with me most were the ones where someone opened a door and invited us into their world.

At Ashford Castle, we were immersed in centuries of Irish history and treated to the kind of luxury that feels almost cinematic. At the Burren Farm Experience, we sat around a kitchen table, ate food that had been prepared for us by our host, listened to a fifth-generation farmer talk about his land and walked among his cattle.

One was grand. One was humble. Both were deeply Irish.

And that's what I love about travel: luxury doesn't always mean a marble bathroom or a five-course tasting menu. Sometimes it means having the time and access to experience a place through the people who know it best.

Those are the moments I want to build more of into my travels — and into the trips I design for my clients.