Discovering Chile’s Hidden Archipelago: Four Days in Chiloé
When most travelers think of Chile, their minds go straight to the dramatic peaks of Patagonia or the lunar landscapes of the Atacama Desert. But tucked away off the country’s southern coast lies a destination few international visitors ever reach: the Chiloé Archipelago, a place of misty forests, colorful fishing villages, and quiet magic.
This lesser-known region turned out to be one of the most enchanting discoveries of my travels. My home for four nights, Refugia Chiloé, offered the perfect balance of design, adventure, and soulful connection to nature.
From the moment I arrived to the moment I left, I made it my mission to experience everything possible so I could return home ready to guide future Red Letter Travelers on exactly how to spend their time here.
Here’s a glimpse into four unforgettable days in Chiloé.
Day 1: Arrival
After a short flight from Santiago and a scenic drive, I arrived at Refugia Chiloé, perched on a hill overlooking a tranquil bay and the rolling green landscapes that make this island so unique.
Check-in was quick and then I sat down with the activity leaders to learn about the island and the surrounding islands and all the incredible adventures possible during my stay. Based on all my interests, we drafted an itinerary for the 4 days. After finalizing my plan, I headed straight to the spa, where I discovered a full hot/cold circuit and a heavenly cold plunge pool set outside with panoramic views of the bay (the view almost distracted me from how freezing it was!).
Dinner that evening set the tone for the days ahead… locally sourced ingredients, exquisite presentation, and a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows that framed the sunset.
Day 2: Hiking the Northwest Coast (Duhatao to Chepu)
The next morning began with a hearty breakfast and an early departure toward the northwest corner of the island, which was about a 1.5-hour drive through scenic farmland and coastal villages.
Our hike began along a peaceful riverbank before ascending through lush forest trails. Every so often, the trees would open to reveal breathtaking ocean views…one of which became our picnic stop for a well-earned break.
After a few more hours of trekking, we descended toward a completely deserted beach. The sound of waves, the feeling of sand beneath our boots, and the quiet isolation made it a moment of pure connection with nature.
Before heading back, we were surprised with a “happy hour” setup along the shore… local beer, snacks, and the kind of laughter that only happens after a long, satisfying day outdoors. Back at Refugia, I rewarded my legs with another visit to the spa before settling into yet another incredible dinner overlooking the glowing bay.
Day 3: Exploring the Archipelago by Boat
One of Refugia’s greatest highlights is The Williche, a traditional wooden vessel hand-built by local craftsmen. We set out early to explore the neighboring islands, gliding past rugged coastlines and spotting sea life along the way.
Our first stop was the small island of Chelín, where we hiked to its summit for panoramic views. Among our group of travelers was none other than world-renowned mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington! And while our hill climb may not have compared to Everest, I can now officially say I’ve “climbed” with the best!
Back aboard The Williche, we were offered the choice to kayak, paddleboard, or head off in a zodiac to search for wildlife. If you know me, you know I will always take the option which leads to viewing wildlife…and I was not disappointed! We came across a playful pod of porpoises who enjoyed showing off and racing under the zodiac before we made our way back for lunch and the return to property.
That evening, the team treated us to a truly special experience: a traditional Curanto, one of Chiloé’s most iconic dishes. Prepared in an earthen pit with hot stones, the meal included clams, mussels, sausage, chicken, potatoes, and vegetables — all cooked slowly under layers of leaves. Once ready, we gathered on the terrace, cocktails were served, local musicians played (and we socialized and danced), and the Curanto was taken from the pit to be served at the table along with chapaleles and milcaos (potato bread and potato pancakes). It was a magical evening.
Day 4: Shellfishing, Farm Visits & Horseback Adventures
I was extra excited to wake up today, as a few of us decided to take our try at shellfishing. This option for this activity is based on the tides, as it must be low to be able to walk onto the shore. Our guide taught us how to hunt for mussels, clams & snails, which could then be prepared traditionally like our meal from the previous evening! It was much harder than I expected and after a short time, we were pretty exhausted for how little we actually harvested...it made us truly appreciate our meals and the time that goes into each one here!
We cleaned up a bit, scarfed down a quick breakfast, and were off again to our next adventure! We ferried over to a different island and spent the day with a local woman, Sandra (and icon, if you ask me), who has the most incredible organic farm, which she tends to completely on her own. From local potatoes, to fresh herbs, to garlic the size of my head...her farm had everything and some. I even got to meet her baby pigs, which were the abolsute cutest! I really enjoyed learning from Sandra and have so much respect for her efforts towards sustainability and self-sufficiency.
Back on property, We had time for one last activity! it was time to saddle up and discover the island via horseback. This was one of my highlights. I love spending time in the saddle, but I have never seen such dramatic and differing landscapes on ride as what I experienced on Chiloé. From rolling hills to pebbled beachfronts, I truly felt connected to the island and was in awe of the beauty...we even spotted dolphins while riding along the coast!
Our last dinner was all the feels! There we all were...Cozied around the fire, pisco sour in hand and conversations flowing with new friends from all over the world. I had that incredible feeling of being exactly where I was supposed to be in that moment and in life. Life, for me, is all about discovery...from people, to places, to cultures. And I found such an abundance of this on this little island of Chiloe.
